Our final stop on our week long sailing adventure around the Mediterranean was the quaint island of Agistri. The island is know for it’s crystal clear blue waters and only boosts a population of around 1200 people! It’s 55 minutes from Piraeus, the main port of Athens, and only 10 minutes from Aegina island making it a popular weekend getaway.
Arriving in Agistri was truly something special. The water started changing colours, from a deep, dark blue to a magical turquoise with white seabeds. I’ve never seen anything like it.
Agistri is a fairly big island so as soon as we had docked our yacht at the port we headed out to find the nearest scooter rental and an ice cold frappe, I was excited to see what the rest of the island had in store for us.
We spent the day riding around on scooters, adventuring down to various beaches, (We even came across some of the island’s famous naturist beaches – Halikiada and Chalikiada.) drove through hundred year old olive groves till eventually we reached the one end of the island which was home to a family run restaurant right on the waters edge, quite literally.
There’s nothing more refreshing then an ice cold beer when you’ve been riding around in the sun all day. Still the best beer I’ve ever had. After a delicious lunch and a quick float in the ocean we headed back through the pine shadowed roads to the main port to get ready for our farewell toga party dinner.
The toga party was a lot of fun, we all used our sheets from the boats to create our evening looks. I topped my off with a bit of vine I found while exploring the island earlier that day, a waisted belt and some gold jewels. We spent the night laughing loudly, learning local dance moves around the pool and won the Lady Gaga dress up competition using one roll of tinfoil and a roll of toilet paper.
With the team spirit high we ventured into the dark night to steal the trophy awarded to the other team for the yacht race that took place the day before. After all, it was meant to be ours.
(Read my previous Greek post, The Ancient Island of Poros, for the full story.)
We then proceeded to fill the trophy with cheap white wine and passed the cup around for everyone to have a drink. I loved my team!
Setting sail for Athens on Friday morning was a bittersweet goodbye, it had been the most incredible holiday with some amazing people that I am still friends with to this day. Greece is a magical place filled with humble souls, delicious food and some incredible forces of nature.
Maybe one day I’ll buy myself a small holding on some far away island and enjoy the last years of my life with my pack of dogs in the Mediterranean sun eating fresh fish and drinking cold retsina. Wouldn’t that be lovely?
THINGS TO DO IN AGISTRI:
– Rent a scooter and explore the island.
– Visit the beautiful church Agioi Anargyroi.
– Visit the village of Megalochori. It’s on the Northern side of the island and has traditional architecture, a sandy beach and a small port where fishing boats moor.
– Spend the day soaking up the sun at Dragonera beach on the West side of the island. A pebbled beach with sun beds and umbrellas.
– Don’t miss Aponisos beach, crystal clean water surrounded by nature. There is also a traditional tavern open during spring and summer months, where you can enjoy the delightful view of the bay and its offshore inlets.
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All images taken by myself and Justin Polkey
Poros is comprised of two small Greek islands, Sphairia and Kalavria, in the southern part of the Saronic Gulf with a surface area of 31 square kilometres and only 3,780 inhabitants. Sphairia is a volcanic rock and Kalavria is covered with pine trees.
We set sail from Hydra in the early morning with the sun beating down on us. Halfway to Poros the wind picked up which meant one thing – yacht race! The skippers lined us up at the starting line and the race was on. Skippers were only allowed to assist us verbally, otherwise all the hard manual labour was left to us. We were in first place with 5 minutes till the finishing line when we made a huge mistake and slacked our ropes loosing all the momentum we had built up. There was oohing and aahing but luckily we had built up a big enough lead that we still came in second. I was so proud of our team.
Once we docked our yacht at the Poros ports we heading down to the beach for an afternoon of water-sports. We tried everything from banana boats to parasailing. My all time favourite is still being dragged behind a speedboat on a big rubber tube holding on for dear life. Anyone tried it before?
Sun kissed and exhausted we walked back to town with a big bag of cherries and a couple of beers. (Mediterranean lifestyle is true bliss I tell you.) We watched the sunset from our yacht before heading to a small local spot near the docks for dinner.
The next morning Justin and I were the first to rise so we headed out to explore the small town of Poros. Ice coffee and baklava in hand. We missioned up to the famous clock tower which was built in 1927 and had the most breathtaking views of the town and the harbour.
We didn’t spend that much time on Poros as our sail to Agistra was a bit longer then our usual sailing times. So we headed back to the port to set sail for our next stop…
The clearest blue waters you ever did see!
Tie dye dress – Zara
Brown slides – H&M
Olive sunglasses – Persol
Sarong – Poetry
Black sunglasses – Ray Ban
White shirt – Mango
Red trousers – Mango
Basket bag – Bohemia
All photos taken by myself and Justin Polkey.
I’m slowly getting back into the swing of things, work wise and all, and making my way through the thousands of images I took while traveling through Europe this Summer.
First up (and totally not in chronological order) is my week spent in Barcelona. The cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region known for it’s art and memorable architecture.
With countless activities, events and attractions to see, Barcelona is a bustling city with a world class drinking and dining scene.
First things first…
WHAT TO EXPECT:
Catalan and Spanish are the two official languages in Barcelona and like most countries attempting a few words while ordering your food or paying for your cab will only earn you brownie points. Especially if you attempt a few words/phrases in Catalan.
The Euro is used throughout Spain and as for tipping, 10% is expected when dining and a general round up is fine for bartenders and cab drivers.
Barcelona does not yet have UBER however we used myTaxi while we were there. Why not rent a bicycle or a scooter for the day? The city has 180km’s of bike lanes!
We had amazing weather while we were there in the beginning of September – sunny all week long with one major downpour. Spain’s warmer months are from June to September with July having up to 10 hours of sunshine a day.
WHERE TO SLEEP
We spent our first few nights at the ever so stylish Casa Bonay. A hotel set up in a neoclassical building from 1869 in the center of Barcelona and a space that is truly designed and curated for locals not just foreigners.
The interiors are minimal with playful touches such as Casa Bonay’s collaboration with local designers Batabasta who created exotic fruity prints that appear throughout the hotel. A sophisticated space with one of my favourite rooftop gardens – herbs for days! (I even picked some to take back to my room for my afternoon tea.)
The hotel is also home to two restaurants, a rooftop bar, a miniature bookstore and one of my favourite coffee shops in Barcelona, Satan’s Coffee Corner.
Double rooms cost from €130, excluding breakfast, per night and my absolute favourite part about Casa Bonay… they pet friendly!
The hotel offers beds for small–medium sized dogs, they also include a dog bowl and will put treats inside the room for your pet. This costs €20 per night. Dogs are also welcome in the Libertine lobby bar. Isn’t that the best!?
For the rest of our stay in Barcelona we stayed at Room Mate Anna which was situated right across the road from one of Gaudí’s grand designs, Casa Batlló.
Room Mate Anna is a modern design hotel decorated by the antique expert and interior designer Lorenzo Castillo that pays his particular tribute to the sea, the sun, tropical and the Mediterranean.
The hotel has a rooftop pool (which I made good use of during our stay) and luxury amenities throughout. Its perfectly located in the centre of Barcelona and close walking distance to most attractions.
Double rooms cost from €130, excluding breakfast, per night. However they have a slightly cheaper sister hotel in Eixample called Room Mate Emma.
Otherwise Airbnb is always a great option too. The Spanish have impeccable interiors.
WHAT TO SEE & DO:
Barcelona is the kind of city where you’ll never run out of things to see, eat or partake in. Our first night in this bustling city was an absolute treat.
After dinner at La Xampanyeria (more on that a little later) we headed to Casa Milà for a rooftop jazz session with some friends of ours. What a treat it was to sit on a Gaudí rooftop sipping bubbles and star gazing while listening to a jazz quartet. If you a jazz fan or simply love an outdoor music experience I highly recommend booking tickets to the Summer Nights Festival.
Barcelona’s architecture is practically ruled by Gaudí, so there’s no way you can travel to Barcelona without seeing a few of his masterpieces.
I adored Park Güell. It’s the perfect spot to just wonder around, have a picnic or read your book under the trees. I recommend pre booking your tickets online beforehand and if you wish to avoid the hoards of tourists book the earliest slot possible. We were fortunate as Justin was shooting a watch campaign while we were there and had the park to ourselves. What a pleasure and perfect for picture taking. (Because we all want that insta shot).
We also visited Casa Batlló, apartment blocks that look like something straight out of a Grimms fairy tale book, Sagrada Família which we unfortunately only saw from the outside and what a breathtaking piece of architecture. Construction on this masterpiece started in 1882 and is still being built to this day!
Walk, walk, walk, walk. I say this every time, but there’s no better way to experience a city then by foot. Each day we explored one of Barcelona’s popular hoods: The Gothic Quarter, El Raval and El Born.
The Gothic Quarter is made up of narrow, winding streets in the oldest part of Barcelona dating back to early 19th century. If you walk the streets in the early hours of the morning you’ll find lovers kissing in the street as the sun begins to rise. Must see’s include the Cathedral of Barcelona, Roman and Medieval walls and my favourite square in Barcelona – Plaça Reial. (Reminds me of something out of a Hemmingway novel.)
El Ravel, also known as Falafel Town, was my favourite neighbourhood in Barcelona. I found myself returning to the hood countless times over my week stay. A multicultural district filled with skaters, vintage shops and some of the best restaurants and bars. Must see’s for the neighbourhood include Museo d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA), Rambla del Raval, La Boqueria (popular fresh produce market), embrace the vintage shopping, buy some beers and hang out with the skaters outside MACBA. Oh and of course, eat some falafels.
El Born is a vibrant neighbourhood and comes across the most modern of the three hoods. With countless squares the neighbourhood streets are always filled with people spilling out of their apartment blocks or the local tapas spots. Great neighbourhood for boutique shopping and hanging out with the locals in one of the various public squares. Must see’s include Palau de la Música Catalana (we were fortunate enough to have a private tour of the concert hour with an epic rendition of Bach), El Born Culture Centre if you want to learn a little about the history of the neighbourhood (entrance is free), an absolute must is the Picasso Museum and The Market of Santa Caterina (I actually prefer this market to the more popular La Boqueria market in El Ravel).
Apart from the above some other must see’s and do’s in Barcelona include:
Watch a football match at Camp Nou. Try catch a FC Barcelona match.
Take a dip in the Mediterranean Sea. The beaches of Barcelona are great for people watching or join the locals for a game of volleyball or football. There’s also heaps of water sports on offer. Fun fact: Barcelona’s beaches are man made, up until 1992 Barcelona didn’t even have a beach!
See a Flamenco show. Barcelona isn’t the best place in Spain to watch a Flamenco show but if you happen to be in the city it’s worth watching one anyway. We watched an incredibly passionate performance near Plaça Reial at Los Tarantos for €15 p/p.
Take a day hike up the magical Montjuïc Mountain. A beautiful leafy hike that requires a little legwork but definitely worth it for the views it has to offer of Barcelona. Also home to the 1992 buildings of the Olympic Games.
If you have the time take a day trip to Montserrat. Montserrat is outside of Barcelona and requires a full day but the place is rich with history and is home to the most beautiful old monastery where you can listen to the famous boy’s choir at 1pm every day. It’s a quick train ride from Barcelona yet feels like a completely new world. The town is filled with countless hiking trails, or you can catch the cable car up the mountain.
Visit the Arco de Triunfo and Park Ciutadella.
WHERE & WHAT TO EAT:
Yay, finally. What’s a travel guide without a decent food guide right? Did you know that barcelona is home to 24 Michelin starred restaurants and 1 of the World Top 50 Restaurants? (Tickets was just named number 25 in the world.) Below are some of the various spots I ate at and loved during my stay.
A small family run restaurant with no tables or seats hidden in an alley way near the harbour and my absolute favourite ‘dining’ experience in Barcelona. Be prepared for festivity, this place ain’t for the faint hearted. Tapas is cheap and so is the ever flowing bright pink cava, I’m talking 5 euros for a bottle of cava kind of cheap. The tapas is uncomplicated and delicious. Ordering is a little tough as no one speaks English but that’s part of the fun. Expect for it to be loud and boisterous and to be bummed from time to time but I promise you it’s worth it.
A refined gastronomic experience for visitors serving some of the best Catalan. A spot for a special “splurge” meal that’s not overly formal. The wood oven-roasted scallops are a must try. Also, ask your waiter to be put on the list for post-dinner drinks at Mutis.
El Nacional is a Spanish version of New York’s Eataly. An incredibly designed and decorated space featuring 4 culinary areas and 4 specialised bars, there’s something for everyone. We ate a delicious dry aged steak at La Braseria. Cooked to perfection, served with various side dishes and a exquisite bottle of Spanish red. El Nacional is a must try. I would of loved to have gone back and tried one of the other culinary experiences while I was there.
Elephant, Crocodile, Monkey (ECM)
Situated right below Casa Bonay, ECM was our first foodie stop in Barcelona. I had one of the best bowls of Pho to date at ECM with fresh herbs picked straight from the hotel rooftop. They have a fantastic selection of natural wines to choose from that pair perfectly with their dumplings on offer.
A cute tapas spot right on the beachfront with a Mexican twist. All the ingredients are freshly sourced and you can taste the difference. They allow you to take your drink to the beach, so order a cocktail or two and get your toes sandy.
Flax and Kale
I practically lived at Flax and Kale during my stay in Barcelona. A beautiful, multi storied restaurant in El Ravel that serves nutritiousness meals without skipping on heartiness or tastiness. If I wasn’t stopping by for my daily green juice I was either having breakfast, lunch or dinner there. Do try their red thai curry and their kale salad.
Some of the other spots we ate at and enjoyed:
Brunch and Cake for the prettiest looking breakfasts, Cotton House for afternoon tea, Cafe de L’Academia for a late night dinner, El Xampanyet for incredible tapas, Las Sorrentinas for a cheap set menu meal, Bar Lobo for drinks in the courtyard and all the fresh produce markets particularly Santa Caterina Market in El Born.
I wish I had had the chance to experience Albert Adrià ‘s Tickets but unfortunately they were closed over the period I was visiting. Definitely worth booking in advance for, Tickets was recently awarded the 25th best restaurant in the world. If you can’t get into Tickets try booking at Bodega 1900.
Barcelona has a number of rooftop bar’s with incredible views to sit back and enjoy a cocktail or two while watching the sunset with your friends or loved one’s.
If you consider yourself a wine connoisseur make sure to visit Monvinic while in Barcelona. Considered one of the best wine bars in the world, Monvinic boasts a mind-boggling selection of wines along with a host of knowledgeable sommeliers.
Surf House is the perfect spot for post beach drinks. A relaxed environment with a seaside ambience and killer views.
Otherwise check out Bar Oviso the quintessential relaxed, people watching bar with great prices.
I didn’t do much shopping while I was in Barcelona, food kind of had me distracted however I did find some amazing vintage shops in El Ravel. If vintage is your thing make sure to pop in to Holala! and Flamingos Vintage Kilo for a great selection of worn out denim jackets and silky island shirts.
Barcelona is a great place to fill your suitcase with local threads so take a slow walk through El Born and stop at all the local gift stores. I picked up some cute postcards to send back to my family, a cookbook and coffee table book, the world’s most perfect sun hat and some straw baskets.
After spending a week in Barcelona you can see why Barcelona is such a desirable travel destination for so many people. An enchanting seaside city with boundless culture and a bubbly personality.
*All images taken by myself and Justin Polkey.
… and so the story continues. Where I left off last time I was boarding the boat in the bay of Perdika to sail to Ermioni to meet up with Justin and Ross who had previously been left behind at the BA terminal in London.
(Incase you missed it, see part one of my Greek adventure here.)
We docked our yacht around lunch time in the Ermioni harbour and as I looked up there was Justin and Ross sitting in the shade outside a little greek cafe. They both looked like they’d been in the wars. (Sorry boys!)
Turned out after queueing for hours and being put on standby for the past three flights with no success they managed (thanks to EU law) to be reimbursed for their flight and booked a new flight to Greece via one of the only airlines that had availability – Air Serbia.
So they flew to Serbia, Serbia to Athens and then caught “The Flying Dolphin” (a supposedly fast ferry) to Ermioni while surviving on a hour’s sleep in 72 hours!
We decided a swim in the ocean and some delicious greek food would cure any woes. So we grabbed our towels, downed a beer and went to explore the island of Ermioni.
Ermioni is a small island town constructed on the hill slopes around a beautiful port with a population of 3062 people. In the past the town used to be know for their shipbuilding and the production of a red dye called porphyra. An uncomplicated holiday destination with the friendliest people you’ll ever come across. It only took us an hour or two to walk around the whole island.
We joined everyone for dinner at a local restaurant right on the waters edge for grilled octopus and fresh sardines called Tzieris. Like most spots in greece Tzieris is a family owned and run business. I was so impressed with my meal that I went in to thank the chef only to walk out with the whole family hugging and kissing me while bestowing me with bottles of homemade olive oil. (Which happens to be the best olive oil I’ve ever tried!)
We ended off our evening at Millennium Sailing Club which is run by a crazy Greek man who loves to party. We received more free drinks then drinks that we paid for and by the end of the night he had everyone dancing on tables and throwing hundreds of napkins in the air.
The next morning I was up early again and Justin and I headed out to explore the island one more time before setting sail. We ended up on the other side of the island and stumbled on a bakery that had just bought out fresh baklava. Only on holiday would I wake up with caffeine and sugar.
With everyone abroad the yacht and no one stuck in London we set sail for us next destination, and one of my favourites… Spetses!
… to be continued…
All photos taken by myself and Justin Polkey.